Castleton: Gateway to the Peak District

Peveril Castle

Also known as Castleton or Peak Castle is an early medieval castle overlooking the village of Castleton. Left to ruins, the only thing still standing is the keep which was built by King Henry II in 1176. 

 The climb to the castle at the top of the hill will leave you breathless (literally, climb slow) when taking in the views over the Hope Valley. Touring Peveril’s ruins sadly is not free but your fee helps preserve what’s left of the ruins.  Be sure to pop in to the visitor centre to learn about the Royal Forest of the Peak, a royal hunting preserve since the 11th century and meet the royal Ginger Cat who guards the entrance. His toll is a scratch under the ol’ chiny chin chin. 

Take as much time as you like through this self-guided tour but it probably won’t take you more than 45 minutes to see.  Explore the remains of the keep including the garderobe aka. medieval lavatory! Pew. After that, (or perhaps first to keep your appetite), enjoy a picnic lunch on the bailey (fancy speak for courtyard).  Climbing in or on the castle walls is probably not permitted, however there are no signs posted to tell you not to so I leave that with you…

Now off with you. To the Keep!

Cave Dale

This lovely valley blanketed in green is like something out of Lord of the Rings and can be seen from Peveril’s Castle keep. Find the gate entrance down below the castle but first go by the gift shop for an ice cream or famous Kendal mint cake as you’ll need your strength for the trek. Be sure to put on proper footwear as the terrain of the valley can be very rocky and wet (water here runs into the ground and floods Peak and Speedwell caverns). Along the path you will see several caves for exploring. Some of these caves can be dangerous and serve as ventilation to the larger tourist caverns (see Lost in the caves). Please use caution when venturing. Cave Dale goes on for miles. I travelled far enough to get a view of Castleton with the castle in the foreground. It is well worth the journey with breaktaking views of England’s beautiful countryside. 

Lost in the Caves

The Peak District of England is one of the most beautiful places in the UK. It’s a mountain climber’s paradise with plenty of caves to be explored for those courageous enough to spelunk their way through.

For those of you wondering (mum) what spelunking is, imagine yourself venturing around the caves with a headlamp squeezing through tight spaces and diving through deep, dark pools of water. Not for the faint of heart I assure you. Also not something I would ever see my mother doing, but lucky for us her daughter is much more daring and lives for this sort of craziness. *Note here that the British call this “potholing” which on American roads I can assure you is a whole different kind of adventure!

Not quite that brave but still looking for a rainy day activity in the peaks? (It rains most days up north).  I suggest you visit the caves nearby. Parking is mostly P&D but well-marked and close by Speedwell and Peak Caverns in Castleton. If you plan to see both caves purchase a joint ticket to save some money which you can get at either cave’s entrance.

Speedwell Cavern

Without spoiling the surprise too much for you, this cavern can be seen by boat and gets quite tight in spaces so don’t forget to wear your hard hat!  I would recommend skipping this one if you happen to be claustrophobic. But if you aren’t much for small spaces then I don’t guess you would be in a cave in the first place…

Be warned the entrance is quite steep with over 170 steps to reach the bottom of the cave before you load into the boat. Mind your head as the “ceiling” of the cave is VERY low. Chugging along in the motor boat meant for dwarfs until you reach the ‘Bottomless Pit’, you will be more than thankful for the stop as you get to stretch your legs for a wee bit. Any guesses as to how deep you think The Pit is? I won’t tell ruin your fun and tell but suggest you go see it for yourself. Get crammed back into the boat with the other twenty sardines they call tourists and begin the venture back to the light of day. Tom, our boatman, (I now feel like I’m crossing the River Styx with Tom the boat keeper into Hades so I’m sure to treat him right- he’s the only hope at getting back out of the cave!) told us a tale of the time the cave flooded and the travellers got stuck in their boat for over SIX hours as the water rose over the boat and …..well… details…who wants those? The main idea here is that it’s quite safe and …hey wait…where are you going…?

Peak Cavern

Concert in a cave? Sure! Why not? Over Guy Fawke’s Day the day British celebrate the almost blowing up of Parliament by re-enacting this with fireworks, bonfires and music (Remember, Remember the 5^th of November). Peak Cavern hosted a concert with fireworks display (which I’m still convinced is all really for my own birthday covered up with this Guy Fawke’s stuff). The cavern’s entrance is the largest in all the British Isles and plenty big enough for hundreds gathered for a concert. Whilst no need for a hard hat, as this cave is much more spacious than Speedwell, it does get snug in places. It wouldn’t be deemed a cave without the tight fit right? Peak Cavern is filled with large caverns, some big enough to fit St. Paul’s Cathedral in over 100 times! In order to reach these caverns however you must be the size of Queen Victoria. The cavern slims down to just a very small opening which was blasted open for the Queen to fit through and explore. Keep in mind that “Vicky” was four-foot nothin’ so for those tall folks on the tour get ready to bend or crawl to the next cavern. We were informed this passageway has the tendency to flood on very rainy days (just like the ones we’ve experienced all weekend…) and will take less than twelve minutes to fill to the top! How long can you hold your breath the guide asks and I shoot her a less- than- impressed look. I didn’t fancy a swim.

I got even with her when she proudly showed off the cave’s stalactites which protruded a full three inches from ceiling and I awed calling them cute babies. She promptly corrected me and said they were not babies but over a thousand years old. So if I came back in half a million years they would actually be worth seeing?!?! Now it was her turn not to be impressed.

There are no stalagmites on the floor of this cave. (Tites are on the top, mites on the bottom. There is your school lesson for the day). If you are up for seeing gems, tites and mites visit Blue John Cavern a few miles down the road; Peak Cavern has never had nor ever been, mined for precious metals or stones. There are several different caves to go exploring when in the Peak District just don’t forget your helmets and mind your noggin!

Sir Walter Tyrrell Inn & The Rufus Stone

Rufus was the ‘pet name’ of my old faithful friend, so imagine when I learned there was a stone erected in England with the name “Rufus” on it. This became a must see. Deep in the New Forest the stone lies under a great oak tree. The original stone has long since eroded away so a new one has been created in its place.

Legend is that the stone has been placed in the exact spot King William II aka. Rufus (turns out it’s a great nickname for those with red/ ruddy hair {or fur}) was shot by an arrow and killed instantly. The arrow was supposedly fired at a mighty stag but deflected off the giant oak tree piercing Rufus in the chest causing his death. Whether or not the shot was deliberate was never known; but you bet the Frenchman named Sir Walter Tyrrell who shot the king, hot-footed it off to Normandy as soon as possible!

The famed Frenchman has a pub named after him. The Sir Walter Tyrrell Inn is nestled peacefully in the New Forest about 200 yards from the Rufus Stone. Here you can stay for a wee bit at the Inn, grab a bite to eat at the pub which overlooks the very scenic New Forest, or pop by for a pint. I recommend the cider on tap. (Doggie friends are welcomed too).

Such a lovely place to visit especially during the autumn with the tree colour changes, but do bring your wellies as it ALWAYS seems to be muddy in this national park. Also beware of the wild ponies. Most are so tame they will stroll right up to you and steal your picnic sandwich! The horses run amuck throughout the forests here and can even be found begging around the Rufus Stone car park so be prepared! With plenty of tranquil and secret trails to stumble upon in the New Forest, throw on your old hiking boots and enjoy! 

 

Highland castle ruins

Ever dreamed of playing in a castle? Here's your chance. Most ruins are fenced in and off limits but I found one in Scotland (mostly intact) to clamber around on. Just outside Fort William stands the remains of Old Inverlochy Castle from the 13^th century. (Not to be confused with Inverlochy Castle Hotel- which is still intact and warm and snuggly- not open, cold and hard as stone). 

I canna tell you much about the castle history although I did read the history plaque before wandering thorough but I had also just visited the Ben Nevis distillery. Scotch, scotch, scotch…*hic* (Learning to fit in with the locals).

The castle, like many others, took a hit during the wars. To learn more about it, visit: http://www.inverlochycastle.co.uk/

PS. It’s a pretty cool place to visit. Tis a quiet place and behind the castle is Lochy River and lovely area to picnic. 

Just look out for the squishy moat when crossing!

Conquering "The Ben"

Sit. Come closer and I'll tell ye a tale of a wee lassie and a bonnie mountain named ‘The Ben’. (Scots love tellin' stories). This mountain is the tallest in all the land (Brisith Isles) and the last mountain in my wee 3 Peaks challenge. Harsh conditions rained from above or shall we say snowed? Ye canna help it if blizzard conditions move into the summit and ye canna see five feet in front o' ye. Even the most skilled climbers can get turned around on the mountain top and drop to their death near the Five Finger Gully. Take GPS or ye be lost.

Did I mention I saw the Coast Guard rescue chopper during me wee climb? Serious stuff. But dinna fash tis not all gruesome.

Ben Nevis, nestled near the sleepy town of Fort William and Nevis Valley, reaches over 4,500 feet in elevation making it the tallest mountain in the United Kingdom. Snow and icy conditions await you if you’re lucky enough to reach the summit. (Don’t be looking for a tea room or a train on this mountain either!) Temperatures at the top are about 30°F/-1°C (Yes, this was during the summer!) Brrrr…pack accordingly.

I dinna think this wee lass was all that fit but it took approximately four hours to ascend using the directions below via the Mountain Trail. It took another five hours to finally reach the bottom! The totally distance in the climb is about 11 miles with a 3,000 ft elevation climb.

How to get to Fort William and Ben Nevis

Fort William by road from Edinburgh is 134 miles.  The roads in Scotland are not fast, so expect your journey to take just over 3 hours.  It's 109 miles from Glasgow, and this trip can be done in 2 and a half hours.  From Inverness it is 65 miles, and takes 1 hour 32 minutes. 

Ben Nevis Visitor Centre is PH33 6PF.
Once you've arrived at Fort William need to follow the Glen Nevis signs.  The Tourist Path begins around 3 miles along the Glen Nevis road at Achintee.

To get to the start of the walk follow the signs for Achintee, Claggan Industrial Estate, and then take the turn to Achintee where the Tourist Path starts.  Your starting point is about 20 metres above sea level, so you'll be ascending 1,324 metres. 

Stage 1

The 'Mountain Track' - as it reamins a tough and strenuous walk. Park at the Visitor Centre in Glen Nevis; there may be a charge. Cross the bridge over the River Nevis, which is downstream from the centre. Once across the bridge, turn right and follow the river bank for a few hundred metres; then turn left over a stile, heading up a path between a wall and a fence.

Stage 2 Cross a stile at the top of this and go ahead across a trak to meet the original path which started at the Ben Nevis Inn on the left; turn right up the rising path. Follow the wide path which climbs across the hillside. After passing above a small plantation the path from Glen Nevis Youth Hostel joins in from the right (this path leads directly from the Hostel to the main path and gives a shorter route; but there is little car parking at the Youth Hostel). Further on the path doubles back on itself to ascend the steeper, rockier slopes in a wide zigzag. There are grand views up Glen Nevis to the Mamores, with Stob Ban prominent.

Stage 3 The path crosses a couple of footbridges over small streams and curves round, climbing above the valley of the Red Burn. As the head of the burn is approached the path takes a very sharp left turn; please don't use the old path ahead which is eroded and loose. The correct path winds up much more easily to reach the plateau that holds Loch Meall an t-Suidhe, known as the half way lochan - which is slightly optimistic. The walk doesn't approach the actual loch though, keeping well to the right

Stage 4 As the path begins to climb once more, a junction is reached. Turn right (the path keeping left heads round below the North Face of the mountain). After another half kilometre the path crosses the cascading upper Red Burn stream. The path is good at this point, but after a couple more bends becomes much rougher, a well-worn route through the boulders and scree, climbing relentlessly in a series of very wide zigzags. Hill runners participating in the Ben Nevis race short cut straight down the scree in the middle of this slope, but sticking to the path gives much better going. 

Stage 5 Much higher up, the path passes above the steep screes which fall to the right into the head of Five Finger Gully. This has been the scene of many fatalities in descent, when walkers attempting to avoid the North Face of the mountain steer too wide a course and heading too far south and fall into the gully. In good weather, the views of the Glen far below are superb. The top and Carn Dearg - fringed by great cliffs - comes into view on the left.

Stage 6 The gradient now eases as the beginning of the summit plateau is reached. The path passes close to the top of Tower gully, and, just before the summit, the vertigo-inducing top of Gardyloo gully. The summit of Ben Nevis is the highest mountain in the British Isles. The summit area has several memorials, a trig point, and many cairns; some of the memorials have been removed in recent years to prevent the area looking a mess. There are also the remains of the (meteorological) observatory which operated here early in the twentieth century. 

Stage 7 The view is tremendously extensive and covers much of the Highlands, but there is nothing more dramatic than peering down the north side, across or down the massive cliffs; again, do not approach if there is snow as there could be cornices of overhanging snow which could collapse if you step on them. You may spot rock-climbers coming up Tower Ridge or other classic climbs.

Ben Nevis Summit- Warning near the edge!

 Stage 8

The return is made by the same route. In misty conditions and with snow covering the path, very careful navigation can be required to steer a course between Gardyloo Gully and Five Finger Gully. Follow a bearing of 231 degrees for 150 metres, and then a bearing of 281 degrees, to pass the most dangerous section.

After a five hour descent, a hot bath and a pint are in order ya ken? Don’t miss out on the things to do around Fort William. After conquering the mountain, try the Ben Nevis distillery. Go on, by now you’ve certainly earned a scotch!