Waterfall Country: Part 2

Part two?!?! Part two you say? Why on Earth would you have a part two after the excursion you had the day before? Well, socks dry and boots do too (after you’ve dumped the litre of water out of them…) and besides, my mate promised no paddling today.

We started this misadventure by going to the wrong car park (my mate made a “Lynette left turn”** and we ended up on the path less travelled) but as luck would have it we found an even better place to park the car. Unfortunately, Gwaun Hepste car park is a Pay & Display and the dodgy machine ate our £4 without giving us a ticket to park. But lucky we were again as a kind, young man who was leaving the park, gave us his ticket so all was well in the forest once again. 

We managed to see all the waterfalls in just 4 and 1/2 hours well within the recommended time of 4-5 hours (including our time for picture taking). We were on The Four Falls Trail (shown in red in the map below):

The start of this trailhead can be a wee bit boring as it iental daringit until you are back in the village to upload your selfies. when you expect to be back. up and down to reach the fs 20 minute walk down an old logging road before you even get on the falls trail. Oh and be sure to visit the loo before getting to this car park/trail as there are NO toilets for miles (I learned this the hard way). The other car park Cwm Porth has a toilet facility (see map). This is the one we were looking for before someone took a wrong turn…

Generally you would follow the red trail in a loop to reach all the falls, however due to the beetle-kill problem much like the one in the Colorado Rockies, many trees are being harvested throughout the forest by loggers and the trail has been closed for safety reasons whilst logging. Do not panic. You can still see all four waterfalls on this red trail; you just have to go back the way you came instead of completing the red trail loop. The short green trails will link you to the waterfalls not directly on the red trail. The waterfalls here are best seen from a distance as it is very difficult to play in the water near these. Having said that, you still might be able to jump in front of a few for a photo moment (when the water is low enough and if you are wearing proper water proof shoes, and if you are one of those daring, mental types *points to self*).

This trail is much more demanding and less water interactive than the Elidir trail (see Part 1). Very strenuous and rocky so wear good shoes and only hike if you can handle a difficult trail.

 There is a place nearby called Dinas Rock. I believe this to be a wheelchair friendly path if you own a very robust wheelchair and it hasn’t rained too much causing mud. Some of the trails on the Four Falls Trail have over 170 steps to take up and down to reach the falls, so be sure you are up for the trek. Sgwd y Pannwr and Sgwd Isaf Cun-Gwyn have very steep paths to reach them but they are certainly worth the trip.

summer 2020

 The first set of falls you will come to are called Sdwd Clun-Gwyn. These roaring falls can be heard well before you reach them.  None of the waterfalls can be seen from the red trail so take the green link trail (5 minute hike) to view this one and head back to the red trail to carry on to the rest. 

Sgwd Clun-Gwyn

 Next, you head down a steep path on another green link trail to reach the Sgwd yr Eira falls. These falls are the tallest, widest and you can actually slip behind them and walk to the other side. Scenes from the movie The Last of the Mohicans come to mind here. There is plenty of room behind the waterfalls for people to wander around but I would't recommend hanging about too long. PS. You are going to get wet -like Niagara. (No mum, I don't remember being at Niagara so it doesn't count as actually being there)...

Sgwd yr Eira

Catch the red trail again at the top of the mountain and head toward the last green link path (#25 on the map shown). Be very careful hiking at your own risk. Mobile service (cell for the Americans) is near non-existent so let someone know where you are going and when you expect to be back. Also, you’ll have to wait until you are back in the village to upload your selfies. 

The last green link trail has two falls on the trail. If the water levels are low during your visit you can get a wee bit more interactive with these waterfalls. Follow the river for a wee bit ascending up a rocky path and ye shall find the last set of falls called Swd Isaf Clun-Gwyn.

Once at Sdwd y Pannwr you can get closer for a better view. Be mindful of the slippery rocks and enjoy the gorgeous sights. After your long climb back to car, you'll be wanting a drink. Why not pop into the Penderyn Distillery in town? Go on, you earned a glass of Welsh whiskey by now! If you still need an excuse to visit the distillery, consider that their main ingredient- water - comes from these very falls!

**For those of you wondering what a Lynette left turn is, well that’s another tale for another time. I sure do love the capers my friends get into. Such great times!

Waterfall Country: Part 1

Whilst Wales is known for its poor weather-wet and windy conditions- it gives way to some of the most beautiful waterfalls in the United Kingdom. If your travels should bring you to the UK, I would highly recommend Waterfall country in the Brecon Beacons. 

Our first stop on this wet adventure (we actually had sunny weather with blue skies highly uncommon for Wales… you will learn later where the wet part comes in but we are jumping ahead of this story)…where was I? Oh yes, the first stop on this wild venture was to the Waterfall Welcome Centre. Hit up this place for a spot to park and, once inside the staff will give you instructions on where to start the trailhead. You can also purchase a trail map (but as I love all my readers, I thought I’d give you a freebie and load the map free of charge here):

As I was saying, free parking across the road from the Welcome Centre, where the Elidir trailhead  begins found in the same car park as the pub called The Angel Inn. Great spot to warm up in after your long hike. Doggies are welcome here too and the food is fantastic! 

Pick up the Elidir trail just behind the Angel Inn and start you way up the hillsides to the falls. This trail is moderately difficult, lacking in handrails and can become slippery when wet. Wear good sturdy shoes but also ones you don’t mind getting wet or muddy. Mud. There is a lot of mud. Whilst wellies are great to jump in the puddles, they don’t work so well for traction or when water logged in a stream (more on that later)…Personally I find hiking sandals from KEEN to be excellent. Water proof and great for traction control but a wee bit cold in the winter months of Wales. 

The Elidir trail will take the average person about two hours to hike, even if you are with a mate who has to stop to take a photo every 10 paces. You all know what I’m talking about; we all have at least one of those friends.

This trail is an in-and-out trail meaning you must come back on yourself to get back to the car. Unless you create your own trail on other side of the falls which isn’t a trail at all and leads to someone’s back garden with a very territorial Jack Russell terrier barking loudly at you to stay away from his house where you scramble down the mountain side only to discover the only way back to where you began is across the river and oh yeah….there are rapids…

But should you want to cross the trail using the wooden bridge to the other side to see an old mining cave full of bats (yes they are in there. I checked), then follow the trail 10 minutes to the cave and THEN COME BACK TO THE WOODEN BRIDGE to catch the trail you came in on. The trail that leaves the cave does look wide enough to start but narrows as you continue. Trust my mate to want to carry on  to the other side of the mountain finding old mining ruins but alas leading us to the river after the escapade mentioned above. Let me just tell you now (so you don’t do it) that there is NO good way to cross a river-if even in wellies. Because as good as wellies are at keeping water out, they are that much better at keeping the water that flowed into them after you fell over in the stream (which looked like a deceivingly calm place to cross with plenty of rocks to hop across but turns out most the of riverbed is slippery with algae and you fall arse over tit into the…wait for it….icy, cold water running straight from the mountains off the falls you just visited and into the river you just fell) in. 

*and breathe*

Please take my advice and use the same trail you came in on to see the falls. 

You will walk quite some time before you come to the first set of falls known as Sgwd Gwladus (meaning The Lady Waterfalls. I have yet to decipher the Welsh language so I just go with it). To get to these falls you will have to leave the main trail and cross a bridge to a short path (don’t worry this is still a marked trail and no river involved). You can get right up to the falls on this trail and if heavy rains beforehand, you are able to walk (carefully) behind Gwladus Falls and wave to your friends from behind the falls.

Gwladus (The Lady) Falls

The next set of falls are Sgwd Bedol (Horseshoe falls). I think they are named this because the water falls off the rock cliff edge shaped like a horseshoe. These are fun to play in too, but wear shoes you don’t mind getting wet and have good traction.

Horseshoe Falls

After Horseshoe falls, come the Lower and Upper Gushing falls (Sgwd Ddwli Isaf & Sgwd Ddwli Uchaf respectively –see map above). Again you can scramble up them to see from the top or have a dunk in the really cold water in front of them splashing around.

Mystical Stone Circle at Arbor Low

Outlander readers will ken the eerie atmosphere sensed from these stones. It makes you feel like Clare traveling back into time after she touches the tallest boulder in the ancient stone circle getting sucked through to another place and time.

 I journeyed to these stones at Arbor Low on a gusty day with the wind howling and whipping between the trees lashing through their branches like the Big Bad Wolf on the little pigs front door. That same spooky wind nearly knocked me over once I reached the stones blowing me down toward the centre of the circle and off the surrounding hill making me almost feel weightless. 

A static charge can be felt through the air which is hair-raisingly shocking as an eerie humming noise comes from the nearby landmark believed to be an ancient burial ground. Somehow it all makes the whole experience seem a wee bit surreal.  

The stone circle is located on a privately owned farm so keep to the paths that lead to the stones. There is a recommended donation for the attraction and limited parking a short trek from the field to the stones. Be sure to put on your weighted wellies before setting off so you don’t blow away!

On to Greener Pastures

Dinton Pastures Country Park has just over 335 acres. The park is open daily throughout the year. It offers a variety of habitats including 7 lakes, 2 rivers, meadows, and several trails all with cutesy names such as the duck or dragonfly trail.  The longest trail is about 2 hour mosey.

Complete with a play area for kiddies and tea cosy for a cuppa for adults, this place has many dog friendly areas – be mindful of lakes-- some contain blue algae which are not safe for our doggy friends to swim in. Some of the water ways are prime for fishing and will be posted to keep pets from harm. Steer clear of these areas which can result in entanglement of the lines or fish hooks in paws. 

 Loads of waterfowl can be seen. Quiet, tranquil lakes which allow for kayaks, canoes or sailboats.

Wheelchair friendly!

Getting there

If you follow the A329 from Winnersh triangle you will find the small car park (FREE) that leads to the Berkshire Aviation Museum. It costs £4/ per adult to go in and see the planes. The other end of this car park leads to Dinton Pastures.