Secrets of Cornwall

Secret lost gardens, pirate’s bay, coastal towns filled with beaches to the end of the world as we British know it; all this and more on my adventure around the Jurassic coast of Cornwall.

Mud maid

For if you have never visited the country of England you might not know that it is an island with tremendous coastlines of varying sorts but also relatively small island. Everything is ditty over here including the streets but none such as the tiny streets of Mevagissey. Traveling by car is the best way to see all Cornwall has to offer. Just be sure to listen to your navigator (ahem, Andy) or you will get lost driving about on those famous one lane roads meant for two cars to pass whilst trying not to drive off the road into the hedges. For even more fun, wait until there is a farm tractor trying to use the same country lane! 

Mevagissey is a lovely coastal beach town built on hillside with streets that are very tight (even made my very British driver squirm and HE’S USE TO TINY COUNTRY LANES)! The streets are just wide enough to fit a small car or 4-wheeler (forget vans or trucks) through. Side mirrors made be touching the buildings. Oh the fun when you meet another car trying to go the opposite direction and get by you. It’s like a game of Chicken. Who will be the first to back all the way uphill through the town to let the other pass? Good luck! O, wait! I forgot about the pedestrians wandering through the town looking in all the shop windows and those walking their dogs through town (just to make it extra challenging and get in your way).
 

Two way coastal road

For even MORE driving fun, take the coastal road (um…it’s a cow path) around to the Lost Gardens of Heligan nearby. It’ll be easier if there are two of you because one must get out to open and close the cow gate over the lane for the car to pass through (how is this even a road I think but hey ho who doesn’t like a little crazy adventure in their life right? Don’t even get me started on the cliff drop below without guard rails or even lack of pavement along this ‘road’. Andy thought Montana was bad. Ha!).

The Lost Gardens of Heligan were developed some time after the World War by soldiers who came home from the war and wanted to give back. After they died the place was forgotten about. It fell into shambles becoming overgrown locking away the secret garden over the years.

The Jungle

Garden Troll

Rope bridge

 In 1991 the Cornish stumbled upon the lost gardens and began to tidy them up developing the 200 acres into the beauty it is today for all to see. Watch out for the sleeping troll and the mud maid as you embark into the woodlands. Dare to climb across the rope bridge in the jungle known as Fern Gully. Walk amongst the sheep and see pigs and emus peppered around the fields. Finally check out the grand estate and gardens but don’t leave without seeing the Grotto, the Lost Valley and clamber around the waterfall ravine. There is much to see and do here. I would spend the day! 

Since you are already down here this far you might as well drive to the end of the earth! Or as the English like to call it, Land’s End. This is the furthest south you can get in England by car—feel free to swim the rest of the way to New York, but count me out. The sea is always too cold for me. Land’s End has been commercialized into an ‘amusement park’ but you can still enjoy the coastal walks for free. Parking is £5 unless you stop off before reaching Land’s End to park and walk there. Hungry me sniffed out a bakery onsite and just had to try a true Cornish pasty (pronounced PAW-stee not PASTE-ee). YUM! *carries on walking happily along the coast now* (what?? It’s a long drive to the edge of the world one works up an appetite). Several hours later driving up the coastline I had reached the famous Jurassic coast with its infamous Durdle Door landmark. 

Land's End

Durdle Door

Durdle Door is the Anglo Saxon term “Thirl” which means a pierced hole or opening. By visiting the structure you will understand what is meant here. Legends and stories are told of pirates using Durdle Door and its beaches to hide out and stash their treasures but the Cornish are very well known for their story telling. Free parking at Durdle Door beach as long as you parked after 7pm (which we did because…well, erhm...the driver didn’t listen to the navigator and couldn’t quite….you know what? That bit of the story is not important. What IS important is that we managed to get there at sunset and before it was dark. Barely. Ahem). The landmark can be seen from the top of the hill but for a closer, better look; climb down the steep staircase and across the pebble beach. There is no wheelchair friendly access however I was tempted to tuck and roll after seeing all the steps. But I didn’t and hence I’m still here to tell the tale.

Durdle Door at sunset

Cornwall's smallest library

Places I'd recommend to eat:

The Dolphin Inn, Grampound, Cornwall (large plates of good food and very affordable. Staff very friendly but comical too).
The Crown Inn, St Ewe. (delicious food worth the wait, good atmosphere)

Where to stay: 

Polsue Farm/ The Barns (B&B on farm with dog friends)

Chirk Castle

You had a lovely weekend in Wales but you’re headed to England now. Where to next? First stop is the local pub called The Bryntirion Inn for a pint then onto your adventure.

You don’t have to enter Snowdonia National Park to see the lovely sights nearby. Why not visit Bala Lake? This is the largest natural lake in Wales and over 3.5 miles long. It’s great for wildlife watching and the birds love it too. I just imagined the conversations between the two gulls…

“Mornin’ Harry.”

“Mornin’ Earl. How are the hatchlings?”

“Oh my misses got her feathers in a ruffle over something Junior did yesterday. Enough chat. Let’s fish!"

My other half shakes his head at my bird ‘insight’ and carries on walking around the lake taking photos. I shrug my shoulders and follow. We didn’t plan to spend much time here other than to take a few photos on this wet and windy day. However, the lake is home to fun such as water sports, fishing (like the waterfowl above) and even part of the 3 Lakes Swim Challenge, (brrrr…no thank you. I’ll be waiting in the nice warm car if you need me).

Chirk Castle

Our next stop before crossing the border to England aka The Country of Traffic Jams and Road Blocks, is Chirk castle near Shrewsbury. Our luck changed as the weather did and we enjoyed a lovely sunny afternoon in the castle gardens hunting for the famous Snowdrop flowers sprawled along the forest ground. Before leaving we had a nice cream tea in the castle courtyard whilst watching a man desperately try to capture the bouncy, black labrador who was having such fun romping about the courtyard and didn’t understand why her Human wanted her to go inside the office on a day when the sun was shining like this and she had a toy to chase!

Chirk castle wasn’t quite ready for guests so only the room available to view inside the castle was the dungeon. (Go figure!) The state rooms are still under repair as this castle is over 800 years old and needs a new face lift (wouldn’t you at that age!?!)

 Adam’s tower and the dungeon were great fun! Loads of interactive things to do. You can dress for battle or like royalty AND if you’re really adventurous, you can take the dim-lit, windy, stone staircase down into the dungeon and see what it was like to be a captive of the evil Roger Mortimer. Who it is said was responsible for the killing of the Welsh princes that once lived in that castle. Nice story, eh? What’s a castle visit without a grim tale? Now that is MY kinda Valentine’s Day. Hope you enjoyed yours!

Harlech Castle - Welsh country

I mentioned the waterfalls during our Valentine’s holiday but no yet talked about our trip to the castles.

Harlech castle was built in 1283 A.D. by Edward I. Owain Glydwr called it home for about 5 years before the English laid siege to the castle and England’s king took over. (Those dang English tried to rule the world)!

Harlech Castle

During the 13^th century the castle was mounted upon a great cliff near the Cardigan Bay which made it very easy for the ships coming in to supply.  However over the great many years, sand bars moved in and pushed back the sea thus leading to marshy areas and finally claimed by farmers for fields and buildings. Today a sleepy little village lies here in awe of this great castle.

Much of the castle is still intact and when crossing the “draw” bridge keep your eyes out for arrow loops and murder holes (sounds like a lovely place to visit doesn’t it?) above your head where they once dropped unpleasant things onto unwelcomed guests. Thankfully we were welcomed visitors after paying the £6 entrance fee.

This coastal castle has panoramic stunning views out to sea, of the mountains and of the town (where the peasants live) below. Be sure to bundle up as it gets a wee bit windy on top of the old castle towers. Those windy staircases are worth the climb to take in the sunset views over the ocean. 

Exploring the castle will take approximately 1-2 hours in its many towers and “rooms”. Remember it is an open air castle so prepare for all weather. Near the chapel I found a secret passage!  I’m 5 foot nothing so I could squeeze in through the hole in the wall. Don’t worry it opens up on the other side to stand and walk through. (This secret room is not on the map). Happy Hunting!

interior of Harlech castle

Valentine’s in Wales

Nothing says I love you like dragging your other half to some of the wettest places on Earth to visit more wet places (waterfalls) and draughty ol’ castles.

Pistyll Rheadr (Tallest single drop waterfalls in Wales) 

“Let’s trek three miles up this mountain to see some waterfalls,” he says. 

“Okaaaay,” she says and off we went. Why would you want to drive up the mountain lane when you can walk after all? Silly cow me legs think after the long, wet wander back down the lane to the parked car. In my head I hear the words of my mother exclaiming, “I do not like outside!” and I smile to myself.

(Side note to those of you who have not yet experienced a ‘lane’ in Great Britain. A lane is sizable enough for one car to drive on whilst hitting any tree branches or hedges that might be sticking out from either side of the country lane. Not big enough for the TWO cars that will be passing each other at any given point around blind corners with people walking alongside yelping and jumping out of the way each time a vehicle flies past. Let’s not get me started on the lorries and farm tractors that like to add to the mix). 

Where was I? Oh yes…Andy thought it would be a good idea to park in the village below (since the sign there said waterfall-but gave no indication it was--three bloody miles away!) instead of turning right like I said when I saw the same sign and driving up the mountain lane to park RIGHT NEXT TO THE FALLS IN THE FALLS CAR PARK. Ahem…right. I’m better now. *coughs* 

For the less adventurous (driving), turn right at the brown Waterfalls sign in the village of Llandern ym Mochnant (don’t blame me, I didn’t name the place) and follow the classic British windy lanes up to the falls trail. 

The trail is rough and rocky and not suitable for wheelchairs or small children. It can be wet and slippery on a snowy or rainy day like this. A bridge crosses the falls trail and has become quite the landmark for brides on their wedding day in photos. (Bet she didn’t hike up the lane in her dress)…

Pistyll Rheadr Waterfalls

Another trail, quite steep, runs along the mossy carpeted forest and climbs to the top of the falls for those feeling brave (and haven’t already climbed 3 miles from the village…ahem! Sorry last time I’ll mention it! No, probably not). 

On the site of the car park is a little restaurant that serves tea and such. Also toilets found inside here as listening to the sounds of the water gushing over the rocks will probably make you have to wee. No? Just me? I MUST be getting old. Back to the goodies. Try the hot cocoa on a cold, snowy day. You won’t regret it. It was the best cuppa cocoa I’ve drunk in years---so creamy!