Standing Stones of God's Country

Carreg Samson

Of all the stone circle hunting I have done in the U.K., I have come to discover that more often than not they are found in the middle of farmer’s fields. This being the case, they aren’t always the easiest spots to locate. Opposed to what one might think, “Wouldn’t you just see a giant stone in the middle of nowhere?”

This is the case for what is known as Samson’s Stones. Not a stone circle but rather standing stones. These were also used during the neolith period to identify burial sites. PS. There is no parking near the stones unless you want to risk parking at the farm, walk down the field and hope the farmer doesn’t come out to shoot you for being on his private property…

Now where was I…oh yes, legend has it the stones are called "Samson" because Saint Samson of Dol allegedly placed the capstone in position with his little finger. Right. And the aliens created Stonehenge.

The 5000-year-old Neolithic dolmen is located half a mile west of Abercastle near the Pembrokeshire Coast Path in Wales with magnificent views of the coastline in the background. 

Top tip: Sunset is a great time to capture the stones 

Which brings me to my next stop...

Pentre Ifan burial site at sunset (aka. The Race to Get a Picture Before Dark)

This site can be found in another field, (surprise, surprise). The stones share a pasture with a herd of brown cows that stare at tourists with their large, round eyes bewildered as to why visitors make such a fuss over stationary objects. Once the bovines know you’re not there to fed them, they MOOve on.

Ha.Ha. *clears throat.*

 You’ll be happy to know that there is parking at this location. Well, erhm….there is a small lay-by next to a plaque the size of a dinner plate, (good luck finding it by the side of road at dusk!) which declares this spot a historical monument.

After a short walk from the road, you’ll spy Pentre Ifan. One of the most impressive Neolithic burial chamber sites in Wales.  The stones’ height make them quite the impressive megalith monument. The cap stone is over 17 feet long, weighs over 16 tons and is balanced on just three support stones! I wouldn’t want to be near it on the day it capsizes!

Haverfordwest Castle

“When it rains, it pours”, who hasn’t heard that one? So whilst it’s raining best get in the car and drive off in search of more castles, right?

Haverfordwest is approximately an hour by car from Kidwelly if you want to hit them up on the same day.

History

In 1215, the English were raiding the Welsh territories but Llywellen the Great (not sure what makes him so great) left Haverfordwest Castle alone. The castle was thought to be made of stone for when the town of Haverfordwest was sacked and burnt to the ground, the castle remained impenetrable.

In 1405, the French tried to invade but Haverfordwest castle stood its ground and beat them into retreat. *Insert joke about the French surrendering here*

During the 16^th century the castle fell into disrepair and during the civil war, Cromwell demanded the castle be blown to bits to finish the job.

Being repaired sometime later, the castle was used as a prison in the 19^th century. Mostly filled with rioters and smugglers and the odd French POWs (so they got in after all!), the gaol was of poor conditions. No baths, toilets or infirmary and the inmates slept on straw. In 1820s a treadmill was installed so the prisoners could (exercise? No. Not that kind of treadmill) grind flour to make bread for those in the gaol. In 1878, the prison was closed and the prisoners transferred. After becoming a museum, the castle became a local county office but now stands hauntingly empty. 

Kidwelly Castle

Ever hear the phrase, “Don’t like the weather? Wait 10 minutes. It’ll change”.

This is true of a small town named Kidwelly and especially true of its castle grounds. The fortress itself was closed to viewing but the gardens and wet lands around it were not. From the time it takes to walk around the front to the rear of the castle it went from sunny skies to dark grey clouds full of wet doom droplets.

What I learned: Nearby the castle there was a great war led by a fierce woman named Gwenllian. She was a princess by marriage and birth. He father was the Prince of Gwynedd in the 12^th century. When the English King Henry I died, he had no heir.  England was left in turmoil. Wales sought their opportunity to win back their lands. Whilst her husband was away seeking more aid for the coming war, she led her doomed army against the Anglo Normans. But before losing her head, she had a son who became one of most important Welsh rulers of the times.

Also what I learned: never visit Wales without rain gear.