Chirk Castle

You had a lovely weekend in Wales but you’re headed to England now. Where to next? First stop is the local pub called The Bryntirion Inn for a pint then onto your adventure.

You don’t have to enter Snowdonia National Park to see the lovely sights nearby. Why not visit Bala Lake? This is the largest natural lake in Wales and over 3.5 miles long. It’s great for wildlife watching and the birds love it too. I just imagined the conversations between the two gulls…

“Mornin’ Harry.”

“Mornin’ Earl. How are the hatchlings?”

“Oh my misses got her feathers in a ruffle over something Junior did yesterday. Enough chat. Let’s fish!"

My other half shakes his head at my bird ‘insight’ and carries on walking around the lake taking photos. I shrug my shoulders and follow. We didn’t plan to spend much time here other than to take a few photos on this wet and windy day. However, the lake is home to fun such as water sports, fishing (like the waterfowl above) and even part of the 3 Lakes Swim Challenge, (brrrr…no thank you. I’ll be waiting in the nice warm car if you need me).

Chirk Castle

Our next stop before crossing the border to England aka The Country of Traffic Jams and Road Blocks, is Chirk castle near Shrewsbury. Our luck changed as the weather did and we enjoyed a lovely sunny afternoon in the castle gardens hunting for the famous Snowdrop flowers sprawled along the forest ground. Before leaving we had a nice cream tea in the castle courtyard whilst watching a man desperately try to capture the bouncy, black labrador who was having such fun romping about the courtyard and didn’t understand why her Human wanted her to go inside the office on a day when the sun was shining like this and she had a toy to chase!

Chirk castle wasn’t quite ready for guests so only the room available to view inside the castle was the dungeon. (Go figure!) The state rooms are still under repair as this castle is over 800 years old and needs a new face lift (wouldn’t you at that age!?!)

 Adam’s tower and the dungeon were great fun! Loads of interactive things to do. You can dress for battle or like royalty AND if you’re really adventurous, you can take the dim-lit, windy, stone staircase down into the dungeon and see what it was like to be a captive of the evil Roger Mortimer. Who it is said was responsible for the killing of the Welsh princes that once lived in that castle. Nice story, eh? What’s a castle visit without a grim tale? Now that is MY kinda Valentine’s Day. Hope you enjoyed yours!

Harlech Castle - Welsh country

I mentioned the waterfalls during our Valentine’s holiday but no yet talked about our trip to the castles.

Harlech castle was built in 1283 A.D. by Edward I. Owain Glydwr called it home for about 5 years before the English laid siege to the castle and England’s king took over. (Those dang English tried to rule the world)!

Harlech Castle

During the 13^th century the castle was mounted upon a great cliff near the Cardigan Bay which made it very easy for the ships coming in to supply.  However over the great many years, sand bars moved in and pushed back the sea thus leading to marshy areas and finally claimed by farmers for fields and buildings. Today a sleepy little village lies here in awe of this great castle.

Much of the castle is still intact and when crossing the “draw” bridge keep your eyes out for arrow loops and murder holes (sounds like a lovely place to visit doesn’t it?) above your head where they once dropped unpleasant things onto unwelcomed guests. Thankfully we were welcomed visitors after paying the £6 entrance fee.

This coastal castle has panoramic stunning views out to sea, of the mountains and of the town (where the peasants live) below. Be sure to bundle up as it gets a wee bit windy on top of the old castle towers. Those windy staircases are worth the climb to take in the sunset views over the ocean. 

Exploring the castle will take approximately 1-2 hours in its many towers and “rooms”. Remember it is an open air castle so prepare for all weather. Near the chapel I found a secret passage!  I’m 5 foot nothing so I could squeeze in through the hole in the wall. Don’t worry it opens up on the other side to stand and walk through. (This secret room is not on the map). Happy Hunting!

interior of Harlech castle

Valentine’s in Wales

Nothing says I love you like dragging your other half to some of the wettest places on Earth to visit more wet places (waterfalls) and draughty ol’ castles.

Pistyll Rheadr (Tallest single drop waterfalls in Wales) 

“Let’s trek three miles up this mountain to see some waterfalls,” he says. 

“Okaaaay,” she says and off we went. Why would you want to drive up the mountain lane when you can walk after all? Silly cow me legs think after the long, wet wander back down the lane to the parked car. In my head I hear the words of my mother exclaiming, “I do not like outside!” and I smile to myself.

(Side note to those of you who have not yet experienced a ‘lane’ in Great Britain. A lane is sizable enough for one car to drive on whilst hitting any tree branches or hedges that might be sticking out from either side of the country lane. Not big enough for the TWO cars that will be passing each other at any given point around blind corners with people walking alongside yelping and jumping out of the way each time a vehicle flies past. Let’s not get me started on the lorries and farm tractors that like to add to the mix). 

Where was I? Oh yes…Andy thought it would be a good idea to park in the village below (since the sign there said waterfall-but gave no indication it was--three bloody miles away!) instead of turning right like I said when I saw the same sign and driving up the mountain lane to park RIGHT NEXT TO THE FALLS IN THE FALLS CAR PARK. Ahem…right. I’m better now. *coughs* 

For the less adventurous (driving), turn right at the brown Waterfalls sign in the village of Llandern ym Mochnant (don’t blame me, I didn’t name the place) and follow the classic British windy lanes up to the falls trail. 

The trail is rough and rocky and not suitable for wheelchairs or small children. It can be wet and slippery on a snowy or rainy day like this. A bridge crosses the falls trail and has become quite the landmark for brides on their wedding day in photos. (Bet she didn’t hike up the lane in her dress)…

Pistyll Rheadr Waterfalls

Another trail, quite steep, runs along the mossy carpeted forest and climbs to the top of the falls for those feeling brave (and haven’t already climbed 3 miles from the village…ahem! Sorry last time I’ll mention it! No, probably not). 

On the site of the car park is a little restaurant that serves tea and such. Also toilets found inside here as listening to the sounds of the water gushing over the rocks will probably make you have to wee. No? Just me? I MUST be getting old. Back to the goodies. Try the hot cocoa on a cold, snowy day. You won’t regret it. It was the best cuppa cocoa I’ve drunk in years---so creamy!

Waterfall Country: Part 2

Part two?!?! Part two you say? Why on Earth would you have a part two after the excursion you had the day before? Well, socks dry and boots do too (after you’ve dumped the litre of water out of them…) and besides, my mate promised no paddling today.

We started this misadventure by going to the wrong car park (my mate made a “Lynette left turn”** and we ended up on the path less travelled) but as luck would have it we found an even better place to park the car. Unfortunately, Gwaun Hepste car park is a Pay & Display and the dodgy machine ate our £4 without giving us a ticket to park. But lucky we were again as a kind, young man who was leaving the park, gave us his ticket so all was well in the forest once again. 

We managed to see all the waterfalls in just 4 and 1/2 hours well within the recommended time of 4-5 hours (including our time for picture taking). We were on The Four Falls Trail (shown in red in the map below):

The start of this trailhead can be a wee bit boring as it iental daringit until you are back in the village to upload your selfies. when you expect to be back. up and down to reach the fs 20 minute walk down an old logging road before you even get on the falls trail. Oh and be sure to visit the loo before getting to this car park/trail as there are NO toilets for miles (I learned this the hard way). The other car park Cwm Porth has a toilet facility (see map). This is the one we were looking for before someone took a wrong turn…

Generally you would follow the red trail in a loop to reach all the falls, however due to the beetle-kill problem much like the one in the Colorado Rockies, many trees are being harvested throughout the forest by loggers and the trail has been closed for safety reasons whilst logging. Do not panic. You can still see all four waterfalls on this red trail; you just have to go back the way you came instead of completing the red trail loop. The short green trails will link you to the waterfalls not directly on the red trail. The waterfalls here are best seen from a distance as it is very difficult to play in the water near these. Having said that, you still might be able to jump in front of a few for a photo moment (when the water is low enough and if you are wearing proper water proof shoes, and if you are one of those daring, mental types *points to self*).

This trail is much more demanding and less water interactive than the Elidir trail (see Part 1). Very strenuous and rocky so wear good shoes and only hike if you can handle a difficult trail.

 There is a place nearby called Dinas Rock. I believe this to be a wheelchair friendly path if you own a very robust wheelchair and it hasn’t rained too much causing mud. Some of the trails on the Four Falls Trail have over 170 steps to take up and down to reach the falls, so be sure you are up for the trek. Sgwd y Pannwr and Sgwd Isaf Cun-Gwyn have very steep paths to reach them but they are certainly worth the trip.

summer 2020

 The first set of falls you will come to are called Sdwd Clun-Gwyn. These roaring falls can be heard well before you reach them.  None of the waterfalls can be seen from the red trail so take the green link trail (5 minute hike) to view this one and head back to the red trail to carry on to the rest. 

Sgwd Clun-Gwyn

 Next, you head down a steep path on another green link trail to reach the Sgwd yr Eira falls. These falls are the tallest, widest and you can actually slip behind them and walk to the other side. Scenes from the movie The Last of the Mohicans come to mind here. There is plenty of room behind the waterfalls for people to wander around but I would't recommend hanging about too long. PS. You are going to get wet -like Niagara. (No mum, I don't remember being at Niagara so it doesn't count as actually being there)...

Sgwd yr Eira

Catch the red trail again at the top of the mountain and head toward the last green link path (#25 on the map shown). Be very careful hiking at your own risk. Mobile service (cell for the Americans) is near non-existent so let someone know where you are going and when you expect to be back. Also, you’ll have to wait until you are back in the village to upload your selfies. 

The last green link trail has two falls on the trail. If the water levels are low during your visit you can get a wee bit more interactive with these waterfalls. Follow the river for a wee bit ascending up a rocky path and ye shall find the last set of falls called Swd Isaf Clun-Gwyn.

Once at Sdwd y Pannwr you can get closer for a better view. Be mindful of the slippery rocks and enjoy the gorgeous sights. After your long climb back to car, you'll be wanting a drink. Why not pop into the Penderyn Distillery in town? Go on, you earned a glass of Welsh whiskey by now! If you still need an excuse to visit the distillery, consider that their main ingredient- water - comes from these very falls!

**For those of you wondering what a Lynette left turn is, well that’s another tale for another time. I sure do love the capers my friends get into. Such great times!